May 21 (part 2)

am i too hard on the Spanish?

yes they imperialized
and destroyed
and killed

but there’s less hiding of that past here.

i am used to the good old U S of A
where we pretend we’ve always been here

where we forced the natives of the land
to flat, remote distances
gave them shitty reserves
(and alcoholism)
as gifts for surviving a death march

where white people can pretend we aren’t on stolen land
because we never see the people we stole it from

but there are people throughout Peru
still speaking their language
(and oftentimes Spanish as well)
dressed as their ancestors dressed
living as their ancestors did.

the main attractions for tourism
are the Inca’s clues

i’m wary of European conquerors

because my ancestors either were them
or directly benefitted from them.

is it fair for me
to
blame the Spanish
for
the shame i hold in my heart?

(but they did imperialize
and destroy
and kill…
)

May 21

Intiwasi
Intikancha

Qorikancha
Qoricancha
Koricancha
Coricancha

Church of Santo Domingo
Convent of Santo Domingo
Cathedral

from house of gold
to worship house of the conquerors

does building a church on top of a (demolished) church
make a place more or less sacred?

May 19/20 (part 2)

my other musings
on Machu Picchu
paint a picture
that may not be entirely accurate

i loved the stones
and the vastness
and the hike
and the mountains

i took hundreds of photographs
i smiled as i touched stones
stones that were put together so many years ago

houses that people lived in

and my brain began to wander

will there be a residence of mine
that will end up an archaeological site

will future generations walk the train tracks
the way they devoutly follow the IncaTrail,
still on their way to see ancient Machu Picchu

can it last, with the number of tourists
increasing every day?

(i wanted to sit and absorb the history
the spirituality
but my sunburn was getting worse
and the other people felt too close
and centuries away,

so we left and ate amazing food
and i pined for Machu Picchu
as our train followed those tracks
away)

May 20

when coming to Machu Picchu
many people call it a
‘bucket list trip’

to be there

to hike the entire Inca trail

it has also been called
‘a professional photographer’s dream’

and

‘spiritual’

but what happens when the busses
splattering mud
spewing diesel
cart tourists up and down that winding mountain road
all day long?

are we really experiencing something fantastic
before we die?
recording in image the beauty of long ago?
connecting spiritually to the past?

or are we simply a cog in a (money-making) machine?


how much of our respective ‘esposos’ can we talk about
and laugh
before the commonalities become apparent
and our wedding rings begin to look too similar?

(on homosexuality being illegal
but not necessarily punishable)

May 19

if my feet could pound air into my lungs
the way they pound steps into the ground
i wouldn’t suspect i have asthma.


kissed by a llama
hiking towards Machu Picchu

must be good luck

May 15

no photos, respect the dead
but they are on display

give a donation, place a sol coin above the glass enclosure
they’ve called home since being dug up

but i could be in this room for hours

the archaeologist inside tearing out of me from my eyes

feasting on the leathery look of preserved skin

noticing where hair is still visible, stuck to the skull

counting the exposed tendons from toe knuckle to nail

and I want to know more
and feel more
and taste…

i am not a professional archaeologist

but for a moment in that room i could almost feel
what might have been

May 12

we hike with dogs
and learn about how the Incas built walls
around other cultures’ sacred places
so they would have to go through Inca territory
to worship their gods
and live their lives.

but when the Spanish arrived
they destroyed the Incan sacred spaces
and forced them to build Christian churches
so they would only be able to worship
the One Christian God.

I think I like one version of imperialism better


we talk with our guide about
dogs
Inca
books
college
Peru
computers
politics
Canada
tourists

and he tells us our plan to write on a train is cliché

we laugh about it and agree