June 19, 2021

hiking up Machu Picchu
elevated
inclinated
[yes, i know the word “inclined” there would be fine]
my breath failed me
over
and over
and over again

i learned that “possibility of very slight asthma”
that i was diagnosed with
in childhood
really hits you
when the air surrounding you steals your lung capacity.

i was never good at cardio
even now that i’m more fit than i ever was as a child
i dread anything that gathers my heart rate into higher levels

so though i love walking around nature,
the concept of “hiking” only brings joy to my heart,
until we are no longer on level ground.
inclines remind me of the never-ending upwards motion
when my lungs gave out
(but we had places to be
and a time to be there by)

but hiking through the park yesterday
a small amount of incline
to get to a nice picnic area
surrounded by shady tress
i did ok.

(it shouldn’t be surprising
DC is not nearly as far above sea level
as Cusco,
but any upwards movement
comes with a great deal of apprehension)

and i did ok
and we all did ok
(just ok, we could have done better,)
and both my spouse and i
commented
on how four flights of stairs
for the last year and a half
should make us better at hiking up inclines

but it sure does not.

May 26

(the end of a trip)

things we will miss:
-walking everywhere
-IncaKola
-how quickly coffee is made

things we are excited about:
-our own bed
-seeing (and cuddling) our animals
-a warm house
-being able to fill our entire lungs
-long hot showers
-bagels
-feeling safe enough to be gay together in public.

May 24

every day i fall in love with
every stray dog i see

every night i wish i could gently shush
every stray dog
i hear

May 23

the coca leaf is legal here
because the most it does
is give you about as much of a jolt as a cup of coffee
and numbs your mouth (if you chew it correctly)

it is illegal to bring any coca products
(leaves, teas, candies)
back with us to the US

white people…

May 22 (part 2)

i’d like to be a pisco sommelier

learn how to detect the floral notes and fruity undertones in
each
specific
bottle

then sip the sours ‘til dawn

May 22

with some words being recognizable
between Quechua and Japanese

humanity may be more closely
connected
than i thought

May 21 (part 2)

am i too hard on the Spanish?

yes they imperialized
and destroyed
and killed

but there’s less hiding of that past here.

i am used to the good old U S of A
where we pretend we’ve always been here

where we forced the natives of the land
to flat, remote distances
gave them shitty reserves
(and alcoholism)
as gifts for surviving a death march

where white people can pretend we aren’t on stolen land
because we never see the people we stole it from

but there are people throughout Peru
still speaking their language
(and oftentimes Spanish as well)
dressed as their ancestors dressed
living as their ancestors did.

the main attractions for tourism
are the Inca’s clues

i’m wary of European conquerors

because my ancestors either were them
or directly benefitted from them.

is it fair for me
to
blame the Spanish
for
the shame i hold in my heart?

(but they did imperialize
and destroy
and kill…
)

May 21

Intiwasi
Intikancha

Qorikancha
Qoricancha
Koricancha
Coricancha

Church of Santo Domingo
Convent of Santo Domingo
Cathedral

from house of gold
to worship house of the conquerors

does building a church on top of a (demolished) church
make a place more or less sacred?

May 19/20 (part 2)

my other musings
on Machu Picchu
paint a picture
that may not be entirely accurate

i loved the stones
and the vastness
and the hike
and the mountains

i took hundreds of photographs
i smiled as i touched stones
stones that were put together so many years ago

houses that people lived in

and my brain began to wander

will there be a residence of mine
that will end up an archaeological site

will future generations walk the train tracks
the way they devoutly follow the IncaTrail,
still on their way to see ancient Machu Picchu

can it last, with the number of tourists
increasing every day?

(i wanted to sit and absorb the history
the spirituality
but my sunburn was getting worse
and the other people felt too close
and centuries away,

so we left and ate amazing food
and i pined for Machu Picchu
as our train followed those tracks
away)

May 20

when coming to Machu Picchu
many people call it a
‘bucket list trip’

to be there

to hike the entire Inca trail

it has also been called
‘a professional photographer’s dream’

and

‘spiritual’

but what happens when the busses
splattering mud
spewing diesel
cart tourists up and down that winding mountain road
all day long?

are we really experiencing something fantastic
before we die?
recording in image the beauty of long ago?
connecting spiritually to the past?

or are we simply a cog in a (money-making) machine?


how much of our respective ‘esposos’ can we talk about
and laugh
before the commonalities become apparent
and our wedding rings begin to look too similar?

(on homosexuality being illegal
but not necessarily punishable)